platinum blonde
platinum blonde

As a salon studio owner, one of the most common requests from behind the chair is platinum blonde, and one of the biggest complaints is brassy blonde.

So, what's the secret formula? The number one thing to remember with color is toner.

Toner will only do it’s best job at the same color level. For example, if we have a level-eight hair where orange or yellow lives, toning with a level 10V toner is just not going to cut it. There is not enough power to get rid of the orange.

Learn the color wheel.

The purpose of a toner is to get rid of the underlying tones and find out what cancels them out. Once you learn the color wheel like the back of your hand, color formulas are like magic!

Go across the color wheel and see what will cancel out the underlying tones. 

When it comes to platinum blonde, making sure you have a great base to start is crucial in success of the color. The hair has to be around a level 10 to be able to pick up all the pigment of the toner and, ultimately, give you the cool result you and your guest are looking for. 

color wheel

Here is one of my favorite platinum blonde formulas from my previous guest.

PREVIOUS:

  • Base: Level 5 with a 1/2 inch of regrowth
  • Midshaft: Level 9 with underlying yellow tones
  • GOAL: Platinum icy blonde

FORMULA:

  • Base: Redken Flash Lift +20vol (45 minutes processing time, no heat required)
  • Midshaft-ends: L'oreal Pro Blond Studio Platinum Plus fast acting lightening paste + 20vol. Leave on until the remainder of the new growth has processed.
  • Toner: 1/2 ounce L'oreal Dialight 10.12BV + 1/2 oz.  L'oreal Dialight 9.11BB + 1/4 oz. L'oreal Dialight Clear mixed with L'oreal 6vol activator. Leave on for 15 minutes.

For the wash, I used Amika Bust Your Brass Shampoo and Conditioner with Redken Pillow Proof Express Primer, and for styling products, I used Pureology Smooth Profection Lightweight Smoothing Lotion.

platinum blonde

Blondes have more fun.

Blonde can be the hardest shade to master, however, that’s why creativity plays an important role. Keep your guests coming back for more and create a look that will be a showstopper for the ultimate referrals!

Always remember to talk to your guest about upkeep and educate them about the importance of take-home products to keep lasting, brass-free color. A look like this should be in your chair about every four to five weeks in order to maintain the tone and brightness.

Ready, set, lighten!