If A Client Wants Color, She Will Often Tell You
She Wants The Color Lighter Around Her Face?
This is a common request in the world of color in the salon. Why? Because lighter color looks and feels more youthful and creates a more slender look around the face.
The lighter colors around the face can help minimize signs of aging as well as provide your client with a custom color, just for her.
Lighter colors around the face can be achieved with virtually any color on the rest of the hair. For instance, you can have a jet-black color and put dark caramel highlights around the face, or you can utilize a subtle, golden red to create a unique look.
Dark brown hair can either have caramel highlights or even a lighter golden blonde to create a beautiful frame around the face. The trick here is to complement the base color with one that lightens the face area but keeps in time with the rest of the color.
How To Achieve The Perfect Face-framing Highlights
Level 5 Natural base color, Desired highlights: Dark Golden Blonde
On virgin hair, you can simply apply the desired color with a 30 or 40 volume developer. On previously tinted hair, you can use bleach with 10 or 20 volume, depending on the texture and condition of the hair.
Adding Redken Shades EQ to refine and glaze the highlighted color is the perfect touch. In this case, you might choose 8N or 8GI. This keeps you in the darker blonde category while providing a shimmery highlight.
Level 3 Auburn base color, Desired highlights: Cool, Coppery Tone
You can simply use the desired shade with 30 volume developer on virgin hair. 40 volume is probably too strong in this case because the highlights should result in the copper family.
On previously tinted hair, bleach with 10 volume should be sufficient to get the job done. Glazing with 8CR in Shades EQ is a beautiful finish.
Level 8 Cool Blonde base color, Desired highlights: Ultra Cool Platinum Blonde
It shouldn’t be too hard to bring this level 8 up to the desired platinum, so be careful not to use too strong of a developer. Glazing after lightening can be achieved with Shades EQ 9V.
For a client who already has lighter hair, a good way to increase brightness around the face is to add some subtle low-lighting mixed in to make the blonde pop.
Expert Tips Of Highlighting Wisdom
Trust Your Toner
Normally hair that is around the face can be more fragile than the rest of the hair, so try not to use too strong of a developer. Trust the toner that you choose for the overall finish. There is always room for clients to choose a less-than-subtle look around the face. Some clients will want a more dramatic look, so allow your creativity to flow. Have fun with it!
Find Out The Right Level Of Highlighting
A great way to ascertain what level of highlighting a client wants is to ask, “Would you like your highlights to whisper, speak, or scream?” Most clients can relate to those choices, whether it’s in their all-over color or in the face-framing.
Create Soft Accents
For the most natural option of face framing, try to stay close to the original hair color. A few shades lighter will usually turn out perfect. David Stanko, a Redken educator said, “Generally, you want the face-framing to look like your client has been kissed by the sun, not struck by lightning!” The idea here is to create a soft accent around the face.
No Need To Highlight Each Visit
For upkeep, you may need to replicate the highlighting portion around the face every other salon visit. This protects the fragile hair and keeps it healthy. Practice cultivating your creativity, and you will have many more tools in your hair utility box to customize color for your clients.
Clients build trust off your creativity, so be sure to explain the steps you are taking to achieve their desired look. Some clients may be waiting for us as professionals to nudge them in a direction they haven’t gone yet.
Start slowly, and let them warm up to the idea of adding some new dimension of color in their lives. They will love you for it!